TT 990 
.P3 
Copy 1 



How to Smeeeeefully 

erate A Steam Lanmiry 

By 





Copyright, 1904. by C D. Patterson. 



V i9 




LIBRARY of CONGRESS 

Two Copies Received 

FEB 15. 1904 

—\ Copyright Entry 
CLASS CL ^xXc, No. 

1 e b *i- 1 

COPY 3 J 



<'} 



To my brother laundrymen, this booklet is dedicated. 




Sincerely, 

C. D. PATTERSON, 

Common Sense Laundryman. 



PATTERSON'S SYSTEM 



My Brother Laundrymen : 

In presenting this, my first, edition of Formulas, Rules, Etc., 
to my friends, patrons and the trade, I desire to state that I have 
endeavored to fully explain a System for Successfully Operating 
Steam Laundries in different localities and under different condi- 
tions, and one which I deem will fill a long felt want. 

This booklet contains valuable information for the beginners 
as well as for the older laundrymen who have net had the oppor- 
tunity of gaining the experiences and methods of other workmen ; 
and also for the owner of the small plant who is not doing business 
enough to justify keeping a high priced foreman; for the washer- 
man who washes to qualify himself for the position of foreman; for 
the foreman who has had but a limited experience and wants to 
better himself. In fact, this tr< atise will help anyone who is inter- 
ested in the art of fine laundry work. 

I take this opportunity to thank my customers and friends for 
the interest they have taken in my work, which enables me to pre- 
sent'this to the trade. 

C; D. PATTERSON. 

Sheldon, Iowa, February I, 1904. 



FOR SUCCESSFUL OPERATION 



THE OFFICE. V~ 

This department should always be kept neat and. clean, and 
provided with suitable racks to lay bundles upon and have a good con- 
venient place for customers to list a bundle, and no matter how the 
one in attendance feels, they should always have a pleasant word for 
every one coming into the office, kindly answering all questions asked, 
inviting them to call again. This does not cost anything but makes 
money for you . The better appearance you put on in your office, the 
better. No unlaundered bundles should be allowed to lay in the office. 
Take ihem to the marking room as soon as they have been received. 
For a set of laundry books, I would recommend Dowst's System as it 
is about the only perfect system for laundry bookkeeping. They make 
a specialty of those books and if their system is used an experienced 
bookkeeper will not be necessary. Anyone with a common school edu- 
cation can keep these books accurately, being especially adapted to this 
business. „ ! ^ ■* *s 

A nice easy chair or seat is a good thing to have in the office for 
the customer to rest while waiting a few minutes in case the bundle is 
not quite ready. A daily paper would also be nice to hand the cus- 
tomer to read while waiting. These little things all help at this busi- 
ness and cost but little.- Another thing — never promise a bundle at a 
certain time unless you are certain of getting it out at exactly that 
time. Ten minutes late is not on time, and may cause a customer to 
mies a train, or put him to some inconvenience that he may never for- 
get, and he may not call upon you to do his work again. So any 
promises made by the office help, or the drivers on the wagons, must 
be carried out to a letter, no matter if it loses money for you. Make 
your word good, for the customer is not to blame for the mistakes of 
you or your help. You had better discharge help than disappoint a 
customer. In this way your help will soon learn not to make any 
promises that cannot be fulfilled. The office help can always ascertain 
from the foreman if the work can be done at a certain time. The 

drivers should also keep in close touch with the working part of the 
plant. In this way they can all be governed, and know at what time 
the last wash will be started and when it is too late to promise time 
work. Everyone in the plant must work to the advantage of each 
other. When your plant is running on a basis of this kind your suc- 
cess is at hand and you will have no trouble in securing all the busi- 
ness that von can handle. 



PATTERSON S SYSTEM 



Mr ; 

Question sheet No. 1, 2 and 3 has been personally gone over by me 

and I note that you are using from 

This soap is a very good soap but I 

recommend that you try a barrel of , 

put up and sold by , as 

this soap is a very fine quality and makes a good rich suds and I be- 
lieve it will be cheaper for you than the soap you are now using, as it 

is particularly adapted for water, also get a 

barrel of and use it for colored 

goods, as it is excellent and does not fade colors; you can also use ir for 

flannels according to Formula No ; make for white goods 

according to Formula No , use the for 

white goods and report the result to me as soon as you have given those 
goods a fair trial, but, if you continue to use the soap you are now 

using, use it according to Formula No Do not fail to fol- 
low the formulas as they are especially adapted for that locality and 
grade of work you desire to turn out. 

Question Sheet No. 1, 2 and 3 has been personally gone over by 

me. 1 note that you are using and this 

is a very good starch. 1 would recommend that you try a barrel of 

, also a barrel of 

, put up and sold by 

as I have been using supplies from their house 

and 1 have always found everything sold by them to be just as repre- 
sented, hence, I do not hesitate to recommend them to my customers, 
and, 1 recommend that you try the above brand starches and report 

your success. Cook according to Formula No , but, if yon 

continue to use the brands which you arc now using, co'ok according to 

Formula No To starch family clothes, shirtwaists, skirts, 

lace curtains, etc., try Formula No. 27, as this formula has had great 
success by my customers in general and is very highly recommended 
and will do all I claim for it. 



FOR SUCCESSFUL OPERATION 



FORMULAS FOE PREPARING SOAPS. 

Formula No. 1. — Use 25 lbs. of neutral chip soap, 10 lbs. Wyan- 
dotte Washing Soda to 50 gal. water; mix as Formula No. 3, only add 
Wyandotte Washing Soda instead a Caustic Soda. This will make a 
soap fit for any use and will work well on table linen as well as shirts, 
collars and cuffs. Always warm before using. 

Formula No. 2. — Use 30 lbs. Neutral Chip Soap, 7 lbs. of borax 
to 50 gal. of water. Mix according to directions of Formula No. 1, 
only use borax instead of Wyandotte Soda. This is a good soft soap 
for colored goods or flannels. In cooking this soap be sure that soap 
is thoroughly dissolved before adding the borax. Always warm soap 
before using. 

Formula No. 3. — Use 00 lbs. of Neutral Chip Soap, 5 lbs. of 
Green Banks, 98 per cent Caustic Soda, 60 gal. of water. Place the 
soap in a tank of 25 gal. of water and boil until the soap is thoroughly 
dissolved. Dissolve the Caustic Soda in a pail of cold water and add 
the caustic soda to the soap, stirring briskly, to thoroughly mix caustic 
and soap; add the balance 35 gal. of water, boil for a few minutes to 
thoroughly mix the soap and water. It is better to use hot water to 
fill up with after the caustic has been added. Always warm up soap 
before using as liquid soap is better to gauge suds with. Always 

weigh soap and measure water. To make larger or smaller quantities, 
use same proportion of material. 

Formula Xo. 4. — Place in the tank 30 lbs. of Green Olives Chip 
Soap and 50 gal. of water. Cook until soap is thoroughly dissolved, 
then add 10 lbs. Wyandotte Soda. 

FORMULA NO. FIVE. 

For washing white shirts, collars and cuffs. 

First.— (Jive hike warm rinse of ten minutes. 

Second. — Warm suds of twenty minutes. 

Third. — Hot suds (but do not boil) thirty minutes. Bleach in 
the last fifteen minutes of second suds. Use bleach made according to 
Formula No. 1 6. 

Fourth. — A hot rinse of ten minutes. 

Firth. — A hot rinse of five minutes. 

Sixth. — A hot rinse of five minutes. 

Seventh. — Sour, . use oxolic acid as per rule. Keep sour good 
and hot, run fifteen minutes. 

Eighth. — A hot rinse of five minutes. 

Ninth. — A warm rinse of five minutes. 

Tenth. — Blue in cold water, run until you get the desired shade, 
say, ten minutes. Always pour bluine- in machine while cylinder is 



PATTERSON S SYSTEM 



running toward you. Use bluing made according to Formula No. 24. 
It is always best that you measure out the required amount to be used, 
put it in a pail of clean, clear water, cold, add just a litttle of this to 
machine at a time until the desired shade is obtained. After the de- 
sired shade is obtained, close machine and let it run a few minutes to 
make sure that they are thoroughly saturated and that the entire load 
is evenly shaded. In both the first and second suds use the required 
amount of Wyandotte washing soda powder, also put this in machine 
while cylinder is running toward you and before you put in your soap, 
as the Wyandotte has a great tendency to make suds. You mil have 
to use much less soap than you would if you did not use Wyandotte. 
A little of the Wyandotte in the first warm rinse, before the suds, will 
help to take out the old starch and some of the stains. In letting in 
the water for the suds, always stop machine and look at the depth of 
the water. For suds never have over four inches of water in the in- 
side of the cylinder. For rinse, sour, and bluing you may use a little 
more water, say, an extra inch in the machine. Bleaching in the buds 
is a great help as it saves time and produces more general satisfaction. 

Never allow your suds to go down even if your time is almost up 
on the suds. If it goes down, build up as soon as possible. Bleach 
made according to Formula No. 16 has a tendency to make suds come 
up when it is put into the machine, but do not try to stop it. Close 
lid on machine and watch it so that the suds do not go down. Never 
boil your goods as boiling is a detriment. The old theory of boiling 
was a sad mistake and a hot-bed for black and soap specks. You know 
what they are. But, in case you are troubled with soap specks, use 
a little caustic soda in the suds in connection with Wyandotte Soda. 
But if this formula is followed you will have no black specks to con- 
tend with. It is true that this formula takes quite a little time but 
when you are through you have the results, alhough, I have prepared 
shorter formulas which you may try, but this is my favorite as it never 
fails in any climate with any ordinary kind of water, provided the 
water is clear and in proper condition with which to wash. The total 
time is one hour and fifty-five minutes. 

FORMULA NO. SIX. 

For washing white shirts, collars and cuffs. 
First. — A warm or cold rinse of ten minutes. 
Second. — A warm suds of thirty minutes. 
Third. — A warm suds of thirty minutes. 
Fourth. — A warm rinse of ten minutes. 
Fifth. — A warm rinse of five minutes. 
Sixth. — Bleach in warm or cold water. 
Seventh. — A warm rinse of ten minutes. 



FOR SUCCESSFUL OPERATION 



Eighth. — A warm rinse of ten minutes. 

Ninth. — A cold or luke warm rinse of five minutes. 

Tenth. — Sour and blueing- ten minutes. Use acetic acid for sour 
and use the acid according to size of load. Use blueing made accord- 
ing to Formula No. 24. Use Wyandotte Washing Soda according to 
size of load and hardness of water. Use bleach made according to 
Formula No. 18. In case you have no Wyandotte Washing Soda, use 
soda-ash instead. Use soap made according to Formula No. 2 or 3, if 
water is extra hard, but if soft or medium hard, use soap made accord- 
ing to Formula No. 1 or 2. 

This formula will produce a fine grade of work. Always be sure 
that you have rinsed out the soap thoroughly before introducing bleach 
as the bleach is extra hard and has a tendency to curdle the soap and 
is liable to produce black specks if soap is not thoroughly rinsed out. 
Be sure to have bleach thoroughly rinsed out before introducing blue- 
ing as the bleach will spoil Anlien Blueing, as you use acetic acid for 
the sour, and in blueing water much less blue will be required. Al- 
ways run according to formulas and never do any guess work as to time 
or measure. 

FOKMULA NO. SEVEN. 
For Washing Colored Shirts, Collars and Cuffs. 

First. — A warm rinse of five minutes, use a little Wyandotte 
Washing Soda in this rinse. 

Second. — A warm suds of thirty minutes. 

Third. — A warm suds of thirty minutes. 

Fourth. — A warm rinse of five minutes. 

Fifth. — A warm rinse of ten minutes. 

Sixth. — Blueing, cold, ten minutes. Use soap made according to 
Formula No. 2 or 4. Use Wyandotte Washing Soda according to size 
of load, but if water is extra hard use a little more of the Wyandotte 
Washing Soda and never get your colored clothes very hot, say, not 
more than 120 degrees Fahrenheit. This is a short but perfect method 
for washing colored goods. Always try and keep suds and rinse the 
same temperature. 

FORMULA NO. EIGHT. 

For Washing Colored Shirts, Collars and Cuffs. 

First. — A cold rinse of ten minutes. 
Second. — A warm suds of thirty minutes. 
Third. — A warm, rinse of five minutes. 
Fourth. — A warm suds of thirty minutes. 
Fifth. — A warm rinse of five minutes. 
Sixth. — A warm rinse of five minutes. 
Seventh. — Blueing, cold, ten minutes. 



8 PATTERSON'S SYSTEM 



This is a very good formula for working shirts where they are 
very dirty, as the rinse between the suds lias a tendency to carry off 
the dirt, giving the second suds a fresh start on the goods. Use Wy- 
andotte according to size of load. Be careful not to get water hotter 
than 120 degrees Fahrenheit for colored work. 

FORMULA NO. NINE. 
For Washing Table Linen. 

I First. — A warm suds of fifteen minutes: 

Second. — A warm suds of thirty minutes if linen is very badly 
soiled, but if not badly soiled run first suds twenty minutes instead of 
fifteen minutes, but if very badly soiled give second suds a run of 
thirty minutes. Make this second suds a little hotter than the first 
suds. 

' Third. — A hot rinse of ten minutes. 

Fourth. — A warm rinse of five minutes, 
i Fifth. — Blue in hike warm water. Use Wyandotte Soda accord- 

ing to size of load, and never boil table linen. Use blueing made ac- 
cording to Formula No. 24. 

FORMULA XO. TEN. 

For Washing Woolen. 

First. — Put in machine luke warm water, start machine to run 
then add a little Wyandotte Washing Soda according to amount of 
water and size of load to be washed. Use soap according to Formula 
No. 2 or 4 and iieat up to about LOO degrees Fahrenheit, or just good 
and warm so that you can bare hand on cylinder. When you have 
a good rich suds stop machine and put flannels right in suds, run fifteen 
minutes. Watch this closely and keep water at same temperature all 
the while, then take flannels right out of the suds by stripping them 
through the baud, bu1 do not wring them by hand. Place them in an 
extractor and run for five minutes, take them out, shake them up in 
proper shape and hang them right in a hot dry room, do not allow 
them to lay around and get cold. Leave them in dry room until they 
are good and dry. They will be as soft and fluffy as when they came 
from the factory, providing they have never been poorly washed, but 
if they have been poorly washed and once shrunken it is a hard matter 
to again get them in a nice soft condition, but this formula will help 
to put them in a proper state. 

This is my favorite formula for flannels as it never fails to do the 
very finest grade of work. This formula will also wash all wool blan- 
kets in the most satisfactory way. Do not be afraid that the soap left 
in the flannels will harm them, as this soap will evaporate with the 
moisture and leave flannels in a very fine state and fit for a king to wear 






FOR SUCCESSFUL OPERATION 



FORMULA NO. ELEVEN. 

For Washing Flannels. 

First. — Prepare a suds as Formula No. 10, only use borax in- 
stead of Wyandotte Soda. Use soap made according to Formula No. 
2, run in suds fifteen minutes and while the suds is being run prepare 
in another machine a rinse of the same temperature as suds. Use a 
little borax in this rinse, but in case another machine is not handy or 
ready for use, use a tub in which to prepare a rinse. Always douse 
flannels up and down to rinse them but do not twist them any more 
than can be helped. Strip them through the hand out of the rinses, 
place them in extractor and run for five minutes. Put them right in 
a good hot dry room, leave until dry. Some prefer this in preference 
to Formula No. 10, but either will wash very satisfactorily and give 
good results if formulas are followed. 

While I do not get a cent for recommending Wyandotte Wash- 
ing Soda, I get the results and this is what my customers are after, and 
in my fifteen years' experimenting with every new thing that was 
placed upon the market to benefit the laundryman in different localities 
I have found nothing that would come up to Wyandotte Washing 
Soda, as it can be used in so many useful ways and produces the very 
finest work of anything I have yet found, but as soon as I find any- 
thing better, that will produce as many good points as Wyandotte 
Washing Soda then I will accept and recommend it instead of Wyan- 
dotte. 

Wyandotte Washing Soda is manufactured at Wyandotte, Michi- 
gan, by J. B. Ford & Co., and sold by all leading supply houses in the 
world, and you will be benefited by its use in your laundry. Please 
understand that this is no advertisement, but, as a doctor, it is one of 
my favorite prescriptions, and when used according to my directions 
it will cure the washerman, also the proprietor, of the following dis- 
eases: 

Such as yellow seams, yellow streaks, yellow blotches, yellow wrist 
bands, yellow neck bands, dirty neck bands and dirty wrist bands; 
faded shirts, shrunken flannel, that off day which you have every week, 
loss of time, kicks from your customers, that big soap bill every thirty 
days, those go-backs, come-backs, and draw-backs, the blues and many 
other diseases which the laundryman is apt to have when he is on the 
sick list. 

FORMULA NO. TWELVE. 

For Washing Flannels. 

In washing flannels, first let the water in wheel and heat to 75 or 
80 degrees, put in soap and start wheel and let run until soap is thor- 
oughly dissolved; stop wheel, put in flannels, run 15 minutes, stop 



10 PATTERSON S SYSTEM 



wheel and run off; run on water same temperature as first, run wheel 
5 minutes, stop wheel, run off; run on second rinse, start wheel, run 5 
minutes, stop wheel, run off; take out flannels put in extractor and 
when extractor gets up to full speed, run one minute, then put in dry 
room of normal temperature. 

FOEMULA NO. THIRTEEN. 
Hotel Linen, Flat "Work, Barber Towels, Etc. 

When you get the same goods to wash regularly, wash occasion- 
ally with Wyandotte Washing Soda alone, using no soap with it. 

Some laundrymen who do this class of work every day, wash once 
each week with Wyandotte Washing Soda alone, getting splendid re- 
sults. It keeps the linen in splendid condition and prevents yellow 
seams. 

It also saves much soap. 

If you do this class of work Mondays would be an excellent time 
to give the goods this sort of treatment. 

Remember that Wyandotte Washing Soda is absolutely harmless. 

First Cold Rinse. 

If Wyandotte Washing Soda is used in the first cold rinse (before 
the suds) it opens the fibre of the goods, giving the goods a lace cur- 
tain effect, allowing the soap and water to pass through and act much 
more readily upon the fabric. 

This action cleanses the goods much more thoroughly and requires 
less soap to produce the best results. 

This plan works equally well with white and colored goods. 

From one to two pounds should be used according to the size of 
the load and hardness of the water, and should be allowed to run not 
less than 10 minutes. 

It can be put into the washer in dry form or in solution. 

Wyandotte Washing Soda should not be dissolved in boiling water. 

In making a solution use lukewarm water. 

FORMULA NO. FOURTEEN. 

Washing Formula for Colored Goods. 
First Suds. 

Run cold water in wheel to show four inches in inside cylinder, 
put in 1 to 2 pounds of Wyandotte Washing Soda, either dry or dis- 
solved, run 10 minutes, run off, drain well. 

Second Suds. 
Run in lukewarm water 3 inches in inside cylinder, add soap in 
same manner as first suds, turn on steam, bring same up gradually to 
100 degrees Fahrenheit, rim 25 minutes, run off, drain well. 



FOR SUCCESSFUL OPERATION l£ 

First Rinse. 
Run in lukewarm water to 10 inches in inside cylinder, run 5 min- 
utes, run off, drain well. 

Second Rinse. 
Run in lukewarm water 8 to 10 inches, run 5 minutes, run off, 
drain well. 

Third Rinse or Blue. 
Run on water in usual way, and blue. 

Wyandotte Washing Soda being more neutral than soap, will not 
injure or run the colors. 

FORMULA NO. FIFTEEN. 

To Wash White Goods. 

For high grade shirt, collar and cuff work, add 1 pound of Wyan- 
dotte Washing Soda to each 100 shirts or their equivalent in collars 
and cuffs. Run these in cold or lukewarm water for about 10 min- 
utes. Run this off. 

Then start the first suds, using Wyandotte as a soap builder as 
directed on page 13 of this book. 

Bleach during the last 10 or 15 minutes of the second suds with 
the Wyandotte Bleach. (See page 12). This will increase the suds 
without adding more soap as you do with other bleaches. As the 

water is not alike in any two places and it is necessary for each laun- 
dryman to follow rules that fit his particular case. These rules for 
the use of Wyandotte, however, will apply to almost any conditions. 

FORMULA NO. SIXTEEN. 
To Make Bleach. 

If water is soft use 10 pounds of chloride of lime and 10 pounds 
of Wyandotte Washing Soda for each 20 gallons of water. 

If water is medium hard, use 10 pounds of lime and 10 pounds 
of Wyandotte, but if water is very hard use 10 pounds of chlorid of 
lime and 20 pounds of Wyandotte. 

Dissolve lime and soda in different vessels, using COLD water. 

Dissolve them thoroughly and then pour together, adding enough 
water to make 20 gallons. Stir occasionally and then let stand over 
night. 

This gives a soft pink bleach, which can be used in second suds 
without lowering the suds. 

Wyandotte overcomes the ill effect of chloride of lime. It pre- 
cipitates the lime and softens the bleach, also holds the chlorine gas, 
which is the real bleaching agent. 

Keep bleach jar covered. If bleach is strained through a cloth, 
into a carboy it will keep four weeks if well corked. 



12 PATTERSONS SYSTEM 



FORMULA NO. -SEVENTEEN. 

To Build Soap. 

Instead of using 60 pounds of chip soap to 120 gallons of water, 
use 40 pounds of chips. 

Put enough water in the tank to dissolve the soap, turn on the 
steam, then put in the soap and cook until thoroughly dissolved. 

After soap is through boiling, pour in your solution of 20 pounds 
of Wyandotte Washing Soda and enough warm water to dissolve it. 
If this does not fill soap tank to required mark, add more warm water. 
Do not boil soap after the Wyandotte Washing Soda has been added. 

If water is hard, use same amount of Wyandotte Washing Soda 
as soap chips. 

FORMULA NO. EIGHTEEN. 

To Make Bleach. 

Ten pounds chloride of lime dissolved in 20 gallons of water. 
After all the lumps have been thoroughly dissolved, strain the liquid 
through a cheese cloth. 

Use about one quart to a batch of 100 shirts, or its equivalent in 
other white work. This bleach should be kept well covered up or put 
into a carboy and corked. 

FORMULA NO. NINETEEN. 
Lace Curtains. 

Lace curtains should always be carefully looked over before wash- 
ing, to see if they have any holes or torn places in them, and note 
made 'of the number of holes or tears. After this is done and the num- 
ber properly listed, place the curtains in laundry nets. If you have 
curtains for more than one customer at the same time you should have 
a separate net for each party's curtain. Do not try to mark curtains, 
but put the mark on a piece of muslin and fasten it to the nets, and if 
you have more than one frame, put each one of those muslin tags on a 
frame, as you put up the curtains. This will prevent the curtains from 
getting mixed and save the trouble of tagging each curtain. When 
you take the curtains out of the frame to press just move the tags light 
along with the curtains until it reaches the sorting room and is tied up. 

FORMULA NO. TWENTY. 
For Washing Lace Curtains. 
First place them in nets of suitable size and give a lukewarm rinse 
of 5 minutes; use a little Wyandotte Washing Soda in this rinse . 
Second, a warm suds, use Wyandotte, 5 minutes. Third, a hot rinse 
5 minutes. Fourth, a cold or lukewarm rinse, 5 minutes. It is not 
necessary to blue curtain in the machine, as this can be done better 
in the starch. Always be careful in handling lace curtains when ihey 



FOR SUCCESSFUL OPERATION 



are wet, as they tear very easily. If you have enough to balance the 
extractor, it is better to leave in nets till water has been extracted; but 
if not place them around the sides of the basket of extractor. Always 
dump curtains out of nets, never pull them out, as this will tear them. 
If they should be tangled when they come out of nets place them in 
a large tub or pail, or on a table and take plenty of time to untangle 
them, but do not pull at them at all, for if you do, you will be sure 
to tear them and may have them to pay for, and you know what that 
means. Use soap made according to Formulas No. 1, 2 or 4. 

FORMULA NO. TWENTY-ONE. 

For Washing Overalls. 

If overalls are greasy and badly soiled, wash in the following way: 
Give a hot suds for 15 minutes; use a little 98 per cent caustic soda in 
first suds. Use enough to make water good and slippery. Second, a 
hot suds of 15 minutes; use Wyandotte Washing Soda in second suds 
instead of caustic. Third, a hot rinse of 10 minutes. Fourth, a hot 
rinse of 10 minutes. Fifth, a cold rinse of 5 minutes. This will wash 
any kind of greasy overalls clean. After the overalls have been run 
in the extractor the proper length of time, I would recommend that 
they be taken to the starch room, and starched in real thin starch; say 
that the starch be diluted about one-fourth; or say use a quart of liquid 
starch to a gallon of hot water. Never iron overalls with a polishing 
iron, or on any machine that will polish, as this grade of work is in- 
tended to remain domestic. Use soap made according to Formula No. 
3. 

Painters' Overalls. 

Treat them the same as the others, only it will be necessary to use 
a little more caustic soda to remove the paint, and if they are badly 
soiled, use caustic soda in second suds, and a little Wyandotte in first 
rinse after the suds. Stove rags and any other greasy rags may be 
washed in the same manner, as this formula will wash any greasy or 
badly soiled goods, clean. 

FORMULA NO. TWENTY-TWO. 

Bedding. 

First a warm rinse of 5 minutes; use a little Wyandotte in first 
rinse. Second a warm suds of 30 minutes, and you may use Wyan- 
dotte in suds. You may also use a little bleach made according to 
Formula No. 16 in last 15 minutes of suds. Third, a hot rinse of 10 
minutes. Fourth, a hot rinse of 10 minutes. Fifth, a cold rinse of 
5 minutes. Sixth, blue in cold water. Use blueing made according 
to Formula No. 21. Soap according to Formula No. 1, 3 or 1 aeeord- 
ing to water. 



14 PATTERSON'S SYSTEM 



Always be sure to have bedding thoroughly rinsed. Make suds 
good and hot but never boil. If bedding is washed every day, it is 
unnecessary to bleach more than once each week, as the Wyandotte 
[Washing Soda will keep bedding in nice condition. Always be care- 
ful not to overload your machine for if a machine is overloaded, it is 
impossible to wash clean and makes it a hard matter to rinse out the 
soap; and if the soap is not thoroughly rinsed out, bedding will soon 
turn yellow. If the water has iron in it, and has a tendency to turn 
the work yellow, it will be necessary to sour the work with oxalic acid 
about once a week. Use the sour in the fifth rinse, only make it hot 
and give extra rinse before you blue, making the blueing come in the 
seventh water instead of the sixth. Good judgment must be used, for- 
mulas carefully followed and no guess work done. 

FORMULA NO. TWENTY-THREE. 

Formula for Family Washing. 

As the family washing is fast becoming a very important part of 
our business, also a very profitable part if we are equipped to handle it 
id we must be equipped to handle all grades of work if we should 
,e success of the work at all, we will now give it our attention. Say 
have a mangle, fairly big washers, big dryer, etc., you are in shape 
andle this work at a profit. If you can get this grade of work at 
and eight cents per pound you can make a fairly good thing out 
t. Eight cents per pound all ironed, or five cents rough dry. In 
i^v, rough dry you iron the flat work only; starch and dry all the starch 
work; dry the underwear, etc. For this you charge five cents, or more 
if you can get it, but have an established price and special .prices to 
none. For eight cents per pound you iron the entire wash. Of course 
do not take in white shirts, collars or cuffs or shirt waists in the family 
wash, and if they do send them in the family wash pick them out and 
make a separate list of them arid charge list prices, for they do not 
come under the head of family wash rates and are not family wash You 
should always count and mark the family wash the same as you do 
bundle work, also check it out and see that every piece is in the proper 
bundle. This can be clone just the same as bundle work, and should 
in fact always be washed just the same as bundle work. Sort it into 
different washes — table linen and towels in one, bedding in another, 
starched clothes in another, colored starched goods in another, under- 
wear, socks, etc . , in another. You may put the handkerchiefs, cotton 
or linen in with the white starched cfothes. Silks and flannels must 
receive the same careful treatment as the same grade of work in the 
bundle wash. In fact the entire family wash must be handled just the 
same as the bundle work, only that the bedding and table linen — com- 
ing under the head of fiat work, — may be washed according to formula 
furnished for this grade of work. Tea towels may be washed in the 



FOR SUCCESSFUL OPERATION 15 

flat work provided they are not greasy or badly soiled. In case they, 
are badly soiled they must be washed separate and according to For- 
mula No. 21. 

Of course there is quite a little work connected with this branch, 
but not as much as you may think and the longer you handle the work, 
the easier it becomes and the better you will like it. 

FOKMULA NO. TWENTY-FOUR 
Blueing. 
Always use condensed or rain water to prepare your blueing, and 
to every gallon of water use two ounces of blueing. The best blueing 
for all purposes is prepared as follows: 

Formula for preparing Blueing. 
^ oz. regular aniline. 
£ oz. special aniline. 
|- oz. indigotine. 
1| oz. Navy B. 
Place this mixture in one gallon condensed water and boil for 30 
minutes with live steam. After the mixture has cooked the required 
length of time set away and allow to cool. When cool strain through 
cheese cloth into jug, and to every gallon add one-half pint acetic acid. 
This will make a strong solution and very little will have to be used. 
One ounce of the liquid is generally considered enough for a batch of 
100 shirts. This blueing will not streak or fade, but will be the same 
color when dry as when it first comes out of the wheel. 

These mixtures of aniline blueing can be procured of ,.1 



This is a reliable supply house and you can always feel sure that you 
will get the best results from goods purchased of them. 

Any other blueing that you may have can be prepared for use in 
the same manner and used according to directions. I do not recom- 
mend any other than aniline blueing, as pure aniline, is the only safe 
blueing for laundrymen to generally use. , 

In case the above mixture does not give you the desired shade 
try 32 special, as this is a very fine quality of blueing and will give 
you good results. Cook according to Formula No. 24. This blueing. 



is put up and sold by , 



1 6 PATTERSON'S SYSTEM 



WATER. 

Sufficient tanks should be provided so as to always have an abund- 
ant supply of good water. You should also have some good means of 
heating water without expense. The exhaust steam can be used for 
this purpose. If water is riley or contains any stains such as iron rust, 
brick dust, etc., you should have a filter. Of course the first cost of a 
filter is considerable, but it will be cheap to you if you consider your 
business worth anything, and your work depending upon the water used 
to do it, and your customers depending upon your work to please them, 
you should have good water. But in case you are blessed with good 
clear well water no matter if it is hard, for you can break it at a small 
cost by the use of Wyandotte Washing Soda as per rule furnished in 
this book, you are fortunate. If you break the water in tank you 
should have two tanks, one for the suds and one for rinses and blueing. 
The first hot rinses may be from the hot water tank or broken water, 
but the balance and blueing water should be from the unbroken water 
tank. If you have not got a condensor to heat your water with, I 

would recommend that you get a Mason & Ross condensor. Before 
buying get prices on this particular condensor, as it is cheap both in 
first cost and in the long run, as it will heat water as hot as you can use 
it and also condense a certain per cent of your exhaust steam, and will 
extract all oil from the exhaust. This hot water can also be used to 
supply boiler, the Wyandotte Washing Soda is a first class boiler com- 
pound. 

You should always tap tank about three inches from the bottom 
for a supply for your boilers and for washing, as this condensor and 
Wyandotte Washing Soda both have a tendency to precipitate the lime 
and impurities, throwing them to the bottom of the tank. For a filter 

I prefer a 

as I have found it to be a very serviceable filter and will cleanse the 
water of most any kind of impurities such as mud, brick stains, etc., 
but of course it will not make hard water soft. If water contains iron, 
oxalic acid is the only real sour for it, and is also a bleaching agent, 
and if used according to directions is perfectly harmless to the gar- 
ments to be washed. 

OXALIC A£ID. 

Oxalic acid is a first class sour and can be used to a good advantage 
if the water contains alkali or iron. In fact it is a good sour to use in 
any kind of water, being a wonderful bleaching agent, as well as a 
sour. Yet it is perfectly harmless if thoroughly rinsed out of goods. 
The soap must be thoroughly rinsed out before introducing the oxalic 
acid, as the oxalic acid is not a very good friend to soap, or at least they 



FOR SUCCESSFUL OPERATION 17 

cannot agree, and if brought into contact with each other, will both 
hold their own. The oxalic acid will chase the soap into the seams, 
neck or wristband and there it will remain, turning those places yellow 
while the other part of the garment may be as white as snow. Yet 
the bands and seams are yellow. You would naturally think that the 
soap would be rinsed out with the rinses used to remove the oxalic, but 
this is a great mistake for after the soap comes into contact with the 
oxalic acid it goes through a chemical process and the acids from the 
fatty substance in the soap will become set and it is a bad proposition 
to remove it with ordinary washing, but if you are careful to thor- 
oughly rinse out all soap you may never have a yellow seam on your 
work for the oxalic acid will remove yellow seams coming from any 
other cause and it is recommended for this as well as a bleach and sour. 
To every one hundred shirts use one pint of the crystals. Thor- 
oughly dissolve crystals in hot water and pour the solution in cylinder 
while it is running toward you as directed in formulas furnished in this 
booklet. Larger and smaller quantities, same proportion. 

STAINS. 

The fading of one garment upon another — say pink upon white — 
can be removed by placing the garment in a solution of bleach made 
according to Formula No. 16 and acetic acid. One quart of bleach, 
two gallons of water, one-half pint of acetic acid is the proper solution. 
Dip garments in and leave until stains disappear, then thoroughly rinse 
out by giving them several good rinses. If you have quite a few 
pieces stained, this process may be performed in the washer. This so- 
lution will remove most any color. Never put colored goods in this 
solution, as it will remove all color. This is recommended for white 
goods only. 

INK STAINS. 

Common writing ink can generally be removed with oxalic acid 
by dissolving some of the crystals in hot water and pouring through 
stained part of garment. 

MARKING INK. 

Can when fresh be removed with chloroform and carbolic acid of 
equal parts. Dip the spot where the ink is to be removed into the 
solution and allow to remain a few minutes, then wash out with soap 
and Wyandotte Washing Soda Powder and thoroughly rinse, but if 
the ink becomes dry and set it is a hard proposition. 

TEA, COFFEE AND FRUIT STAINS. 

These stains can be removed by stretching article over a pail and 
pouring boiling hot water through stained parts. 



l8 PATTERSON'S SYSTEM 

ACETIC ACID. 

Acetic acid is one of our very useful chemicals — in preparing 
blueing, also as a sour. To every 50 shirts use 8 fluid ounces. Larger 
and smaller quantities in same proportion ; for bedding, table linen and 
all flat work, or starch cloths, according to size of load. 

IKON EUST. 

This can be removed by the use of oxalic acid. Dissolve a few 
of the crystals in hot water, dip stains and leave for a few minutes, 
when stains will be removed entirely. Rinse thoroughly to remove 
the acid. 

MILDEW. 

To remove this most annoying stain, place articles in sweet milk 
and place in some warm place and allow to remain there till milk be- 
comes sour or clabor; then add to every gallon of milk one fluid ounce 
of chloroform. After the chloroform has been in the solution for a 
couple of hours take out articles and place in sun upon the grass, if 
you have a convenient grass plot, but if not place on woolen blanket 
and allow to remain there for a few hours when stains should be re- 
moved, but in case it is not entirely gone place them in the solution of 
bleach and acetic acid as directed in this book. 

STARCH COOKING WITH LIVE STEAM. 

In cooking starch I would recommend that you use live steam. 
There are many different makes of starch cookers, steel jacketed, etc., 
but I do not think there has been anything yet invented that will do 
the work as live steam will do it, as the live steam has the tendency to 
burst the grains of starch and make the liquid free from lumps or par- 
ticles of starch that would bake upon different makes of jacketed kettles. 
See that your steam pipe is thoroughly clean before using and always 
blow it out by opening valve to remove all condensation that may accu- 
mulate in pipes. Use a copper or brass kettle of suitable size, and 

cook according to formulas furnished in this book. Write 

y. for catalogue and 

prices on a complete line of starching specialties. 

STARCHING. 

Shirts, Collars and Cuffs. 
If a dip wheel is used for the collars and cuffs instead of a ma- 
chine, care must be taken to carefully squeeze out all surplus starch, 
especially at the end of the collars and cuffs; also at the seams the sur- 



FOR SUCCESSFUL OPERATION 19 

plus will collect, and if care is not taken will be left there and when 
they reach the ironing room, there will be trouble, for the surplus 
starch will turn brown or gray as soon as it comes in contact with the 
hot roll. Cheese cloth will be found to be the best to wipe off starch 
with, but as they must be looked after and kept perfectly clean and 
rinsed out in hot water as soon as they become saturated with the sur- 
plus starch. A hand wringer placed at some convenient place near the 
starch table will be handy, and will wring the starched cloths better 
than you can by hand, as you cannot handle them when they come 
out of the hot water by hand as with the wringer. Bosoms must be 
treated in the same careful manner as collars and cuffs, and all sur- 
plus starch wiped off. When squeezing out starch start at the upper 
part of the bosom and wipe down and when you reach the end bear 
the hand a little harder, taking pains to get out all wrinkles, and do 
not leave them at bottom or sides as this is a poor practice and the work 
will not be first class unless all wrinkles are removed. A pleat raiser 
will be found to be a very handy tool to use for removing wrinkles — a 
real blunt one is the best and will not tear the garment as a thinner 
one might do; but as the starch we have to use at present is all thin 
cooking and when used good and hot it is no trouble to get out all sur- 
plus wrinkles with ease. Never allow the shirts or collars to lay around 
after they have been starched and become cold, and never starch faster 
than they can be wiped off as the starch will become sticky and unfit to 
handle as soon as it gets cold. Care should also be taken to prevent 
starch from getting on other parts of the shirt than where it is intended. 
The yoke should be carefully wiped, also the wristband. If a shirt 
starcher is used there is not so much chance for starch to get on the 
unstarched parts as when you dip your work. Of course dipping work 
was all right until the better equipments came on. A starching ma- 
chine that will do better work is now upon the market and has been 
for quite a few years, and every up-to-date laundryman has one or will 
surely get one as soon as they learn its merits. The best way, and the 
most rapid way to starch, I have found, is as follows: A crew of four 
girls is necessary to handle shirts rapidly ; one to shake up the shirts and 
get them in shape to put through the starching machine ; another to put 
them in; another to wipe the wristbands and yoke; and another to wipe 
the bosoms. A crew of this size under ordinary circumstances can put 
up in good shape 75 to 100 shirts per hour, and if they are all inclined 
to be a little swift, can put up 125 without hurrying much. Of course 
the smaller plants cannot keep a crew of starch girls, but you can ar- 
range your work so as to have this number work on the starching for 
a couple of hours each day better than you can try to do it with one 
starch girl, as no one can do this alone and do it as it should be done. 
If you have a collar machine, the same crew of four can put up a good, 
big run of collars and cuffs in just a few minutes. For a line of starch- 



20 PATTERSON'S SYSTEM 



ing machinery, I would recommend, 



as it is undobutedly the best and has stood the test under all circum- 
stances, and has always proved a great success. 

FORMULA NO. TWENTY-FIVE. 

For Cooking Thin Cooking Wheat Starch. 

. To every gallon of water use 1] pound of starch. Place two- 
thirds of the water to be used to boil. Dissolve starch in remaining 
one-third of the water. After the starch is thoroughly dissolved, strain 
through a milk strainer into another clean pail, Now pour slowly 
into the water and boil 20 minutes. To every gallon of the starch 
add a lump of Japan wax about the size of a hickory nut, a teaspoon- 
ful of borax and one ounce of acetic acid. Always put in the acid 
after the starch is ready to use. Always strain starch through cheese 
cloth before using, and keep starch warm while starching. 

FORMULA NO. TWENTY-SIX. 

To prepare starch for family wash work just the same as you 
would for shirts in Formula No. 27, only use a little more Japan wax. 
After the starch has been cooked the required length of time, add to 
every gallon liquid starch two gallons hot water and strain through a 
cheese cloth when it will be ready for use. Wring pieces out of 
starch in extractor and run extractor just long enough to take out sur- 
plus starch. Always shake starch work out good before hanging in 
dry room, and be careful not to let extractor run too long, as it does 
not take long to take the surplus starch out. Always starch white 
clothes first. Then strain starch again before starching colored goods 
— strain through cheese cloth. For black goods you may add a little 
black ink to the starch. 

This starch may also be used for lace curtains. If the lace cur- 
tains are cream or tan colored you may color your starch with coffee 
to suit color of curtains. In placing lace curtains in the extractor 
care should be taken not to get them cross-ways in the extractor as 
this will tear them. Place them around the sides of the basket and 
run until sufficient amount of starch has been taken out. When they 
are ready to put in the frames pains must be taken to get every scallop 
evenly stretched, and always be sure that the frames are square and 
level, as crooked frames will make crooked curtains. After the cur- 
tains are dry they may go through the mangle to press them out, or 
the scallops may be pressed by hand. The mangle, however, is the 
most successful way to press curtains, but much care must always be 
taken in using it for curtains. It is necessary that you have one per- 



FOR SUCCESSFUL OPERATION 21 

son stand at the pressure lever all the while, and if the curtains should 
get the least to one side the mangle must be stopped at once, pressure 
released and the curtain straightened. In this way you can turn out 
the very highest grade of curtain work and do it with the least effort 
after you get started. Do not try to hurry this work at first as time is 
necessary to give satisfaction. If curtains have any holes in them they 
should be tacked while in the frame and while wet. If treated in this 
way the mends will not show as if tacked while dry. 

FORMULA NO. TWENTY-SEVEN. 

For Preparing and Cooking Thin Cooking Wheat and Thin Cooking- 
Corn Starch. 

Use in proportion three-quarters corn and one-quarter wheat 
starch; and one pound of this mixture to every gallon of water. Al- 
ways use clean, clear water in starch. First weigh your starch and 
measure water to be used. Place two-thirds of water in starch cooker, 
turn on steam and bring to a boil. Place starch in a pail with the 
balance one-third of water and stir till starch is thoroughly dissolved; 
then strain it through a milk strainer into another pail. 

Now pour slowly into starch cooker, and do not pour fast enough 
to stop it from boiling, but turn on steam a little stronger when you 
start to pour in the starch. Stir this for a few minutes. Boil for 15 
minutes with direct steam. When your starch has cooked 10 minutes, 
add to every gallon of starch 1 ounce acetic acid, one teaspoonful borax 
and a lump of Japan wax the size of an acorn; stir this thoroughly into 
the starch, but do not boil over 15 minutes in all. It is best to put 
Japan wax into water before starch is added. When starch has been 
cooked the required length of time, blue it to the required shade, using 
blueing made according to Formula No. 21. 

FORMULA NO. TWENTY -EIGHT. 

For Cooking Thin Cooking Wheat and Thick Cooking Corn Starch. 
Use in proportion two-thirds wheat and one-third corn. Cook ac- 
cording to Formula No. 27. 

STARCH TABLES AND BOARDS. 

Should be covered with sheet zinc as this will prevent any stains 
coining from the board, as the garment being saturated with hot 
starch it has a tendency to draw rosin or pitch out of boards if unpro- 
tected. This zinc can be procured from any tinner at a reasonable 
cost and vim will be greatly benefited by it. 

THE IRONING ROOM. 

Every machine should be perfectly clean and can be kept so by 
wiping with clean rags or waste every day before using. Also the 



22 PATTERSON'S SYSTEM 



floor should be clean, and all tables, boards, etc., must be kept clean; 
the board covers should be changed as often as they become soiled; 
also the covers on all machines must be kept clean. 

As soon as they are used a certain length of time, and become 
sticky from surplus starch which they gather from the inner part of 
the bosoms, they become harsh and unfit for good work. Some may 
say that they never have any surplus starch on the board, but this is 
a sad mistake. While you cannot see the surplus with the eye, the 
pores in the board cover will in time teach you differently, as they will 
fill and become stiff from the surplus starch. These covers may be 
washed several times and are then always clean and in good condition 
for use until they wear out. The felts on the machines should be re- 
moved at least once each week; they can also be steamed and used 
many times. In this way you can keep your padding nice and soft 
which is very important as it is impossible to do nice work on hard 
beds. 

Too much pressure is also a bad thing — just enough pressure to 
make a nice, smooth surface is all that is necessary; if the work is not 
quite as highly polished as it should be, a little more pressure is nec- 
essary. A piece of Japan wax tied in a cloth should always be kept at 
each machine; also at each ironing board, and before any ironing is to 
be done the irons must be thoroughly cleaned and waxed. If your 
machine becomes too hot, wax it with Japan wax, and iron a damp 
cloth. This will decrease the heat and make a nice surface tension on 
the roll or iron. 

Do not use an iron or machine that is so hot that it will scorch 
your work, as this is too -hot and will have a tendency to make hard, 
brittle work. An iron just hot enough to dry out the moisture in a 
reasonable time is much better. Irons too hot will cause bosoms, col- 
lars and cuffs to blister; this is also true of an iron not hot enough. 
You can tell by your work when the roll or iron is at the right tem- 
perature. 

See that the girls keep their aprons nice and clean as this will pre- 
vent any dirt coining in contact with the clean work, and also make a 
much better appearance to spectators. 

IKONING COLLAKS AXD CUFFS. 

On a Combined Machine. 

Always have padding on boards nice and soft and not too much 
pressure. Have roll good and hot, yet not too hot. Iron collars on 
the right side first, and continue to iroa on this side until the moisture 
has about all been taken out. Then turn collar over and iron inner 
side until dry, and if they have been ironed too long on the outside 
they will not curl up as they should, but if they curl up just a little 
they are working right, but in case you have not ironed the outside 



^ FOR SUCCESSFUL OPERATION 23 

long enough you will notice that they have the print of the muslin on 
them from the board covers and will be rough on the outside and when 
you turn them and iron them on the right side they will blister. It is 
better to always start on the outside and finish on the inner side. In 
this way the collars or cuffs are put in the position that they are to be 
worn, and will last longer and are not so apt to break or blister when 
you run them through the shaper. When collars or cuffs are passed 
under hot roll a couple of times, by taking them by the ends toward 
you and raising them it allows the steam to escape and prevents stick- 
ing on board covers. But if they are allowed to stick to board covers, 
the chances are that they will blister. Always wax roll with Japan wax 
as often as it needs it, and iron a damp cloth after waxing and before 
ironing any starch work. This damp cloth removes the surplus wax 
which would come off on your starch work. Ironing turn-down collars 
in this way, the inner part does not receive enough ironing to put a 
hard surface on ; hence, it will be easier to dampen seams when you go 
to turn them. If the work is properly dampened it is not necessary 
for you to use a damp cloth to wipe collars when ironed, and I do not 
reeommend the use of one only to remove any soot or dirt that might 
drop on work while ironing; and if you dampen a spot to remove a 
little dirt or soot it is necessary that you dampen the entire piece, as 
the spot would remain damp when the balance would be ironed enough. 
A careful painstaking person is the only one to operate an ironing 
machine and the best is none too good. 

IRONING COLLARS. 

On A Collar Machine. 

They may be handled just the same as on a combined machine, 
as both machines are on the same principle, only that the collars and 
cuffs may be handled more rapidly and in some cases better work may 
be done with a collar machine, but as in the other case some compe- 
tent person must be put in charge of this machine to get good results 
and the longer one operates this machine the better they can do the 

work. 

SHIRT IRONING. 

As there are so many makes of ironing machines for ironing 
shirts, the best to select would be a hard matter. Some prefer one 
make and some another. Generally the one that you prefer is the 
one that you are most familiar with, but there is a difference in the 
makes of ironing machines. Of course all of them will do good work 
with a skilled operator, but some will do better work than others and 
with much more ease to the operator. While I have operated every 
make of an ironing machine now upon the market, I am like the rest 
of you, I have my preference, 1ml: most any good high-board shirt ma- 



24 PATTERSONS SYSTEM 

chine will do good work, and work can be handled better on a high- 
board machine than on a low board or standard, as the shirts can be put 
on and taken off much quicker, and most all high-board machine boards 
are provided with a neckband and yoke clamp which enables the ope- 
rator to shape the shirt to a better advantage. Of course those clamps 
may not be used by experienced operators more than once a day, but 
they are there when you do need them and are not in the way when 
not in use. To commence to iron a shirt always have them folded so 
when you pick up one it is in the proper position to go on board. 

Iron wristbands first if you iron them on a shirt machine. Iron 
them on the outside first as you would a collar or cuff, and when they 
are through they will be curled in proper shade. Commence now on 
the bosom. If an open front iron upper half first; go entire length of 
bosom without reversing machine. In ironing the upper half you can 
get closer to the end and not muss the half you have ironed first, to 
iron the other half. Having finished both halves there will be a little 
spot at the bottom of the bosom which to get at you will have to re- 
move shirt from board and turn it around. Now this little spot re- 
maining clamp enables you to match button holes nicely. Place but- 
ton holes squarely over each other, and hold them between thumb and 
finger until you have ironed little spot at bottom of bosom, when the 
entire bosom will be smooth and will not bulge when buttoned. 
jClosed fronts- — commence at top and run entire length of bosom. 
Continue to do this until bosom is finished. Raise bosom up occasion- 
ally while it is going under roll, which will allow the moisture of es- 
cape and make a nice surface on inner side of bosom, and will have a 
tendency to make bosom more flexible. 

NECK AND WAISTBAND IRONING. 

I presume that every laundry is equipped with a neck and wrist- 
band ironer, as no laundry is complete without one. If you have one, 
and have not got a yoke ironer, the band ironer providing the roll or 
shoe is long enough, say six inches, may be used to iron the yokes. If 
you use the band ironer for the yoke work, the best results may be 
obtained by first ironing the yoke on the inner side. In this way the 
shirt will have a much nicer appearance when folded, and will be more 
comfortable for the Avearer. The neck band should also be ironed on 
the inner side first. Much care should be taken to get the neck band 
ironed so that it is as near upright as possible when shirt is folded, for 
there is nothing so annoying to the wearer than a poorly set neckband, 
as the collar will not set well, and the collar work is condemned in- 
stead of the poorly set band. An expansion band ring used in finish- 
ing has a tendency to overcome this evil and make the band set in the 
proper shape. Too much pains cannot be taken on the neckband 
ironer. If von have a volte ironer all the yoking may be done on this 



FOR SUCCESSFUL OPERATION 2J> 

machine, and in this case the yoke must be ironed the same as on the 
band ironer, as the yoke has much to do with the looks of the shirt, as 
it is always in plain view of the wearer when package is open. The 
yoke will be noticed as soon or sooner than the bosom and when put 
on and is rough and annoys the wearer by rubbing his neck, particular 
notice will be taken by him, not to give you another chance to pretend 
to do his work. This may all be avoided by giving the little things 
your particular attention. 

THE BODY IRONER. 

On this machine nice work may be done. Also rapid work, 
which counts. The sleeves may also be ironed on this machine, and 
all cotton underwear, duck skirts, duck trousers and many other things, 
and in case you have no mangle, napkins, towels, pillow cases, etc., 
may be ironed on this machine. Handkerchiefs, socks, overalls, and 
in fact any plain work, either starched or flat can be done up rapidly 
and in first class shape on this machine. But as in all cases an experi- 
enced operator must be in charge, and in that case any machine will do 
good work. 

TURNING AND EDGING COLLARS. 

This being one of our many important parts of the work we will 
now give it our closest attention, as there is nothing more annoying 
than a rough edged collar to the wearer. We should take particular 
pains to see that no collars or cufi's leave the laundry with a rough edge, 
no matter if the collars are worn when received, we must send it out 
with the edge as smooth as glass. This you can do by using the 



as this device will edge standing collars and turn roll collars and tip 
wing points to perfection. 

To Turn A Roll Collar 

pa^w the seam over the tipping device, turning on steam a little 
stronger than for wing points; after the seams become soft, place collar 
around the heated iron, draw it tightly to the heated iron by placing 
thumbs into the roll part of collar a half inch or so at each end, ihus 
giving the collar a nice roll front which is so desirable, and we must 
please our patronage. 

To Tip Wing Points. 

place the seam which marks turning plaee over the tipping device, and 
slowly bend it over until it is in the proper condition. You may now 
lay the collars on the tables for just a minute or so, when they will 
again become stiff, — as the starch which I recommend m elastic, — and 



26 PATTERSON'S SYSTEM 



the steam does not have a tendency to take out the starch, but just re- 
moves the stiffness while they are in the steam, leaving them nice and 
stiff yet flexible. Turn-down collars may also be dampened in the 
same manner and get good results, but as this process is a little slow 
for common turn-down collars, I would recommend that you dampen 



them with a. 



as this device will dampen turn down collars rapidly and evenly, and 
prevent them from breaking when put through the shaper; but if you 
have not got a shaper, the next best way to turn the turn-down collars 
is to use a common smoothing iron. If you use the latter, have it prop- 
erly wiped and good and hot; take collar at button hole between thumb 
and finger of left hand; take iron in right hand — heel of iron. Now 
push iron slowly over collar, raising the iron a little at the point and 
bearing down good and hard at the heel, at the same time raising col- 
lar with left hand keeping it closely against heel of iron until you 
reach the center of the collar. Now turn iron around and turn other 
half the same as first. In this way the collar will be in proper shape. 
Turn-down collars, as standing collars, are affected with rough edg 



but you can overcome this by using a 



IRONING FLANNELS. 

Flannels should not be ironed; the facing may be pressed out, but 
the other part of the woolen garment should be brushed with a stiff 
brush to raise the napp, then fold them in the proper manner. This 
will put flannels in a nice soft and fluffly condition as they should be. 
Some laundrymen recommend that the woolens be pressed under a 
damp cloth with a hot iron, but I contend that this will spoil flannel 
or woolens and make them harsh and shrunken, as the damp cloth 
contains enough moisture to steam the woolens through. This also 
changes the temperature from cold to hot, and when the cloth has been 
removed the flannels suffer another violent change from hot to cold, 
and more woolens have been ruined in this way than by the poorest 
kind of washing, as those changes are the very worst kind — being so 
sudden. 

the steam: .mangle. 

The size of this all important machine is the first thing to con- 
sider; the larger the better, no matter if you only have a small amount 
of work. It is as important that you do it in first class shape and at 
as small a cost as if you were doing a ton per day. Of course I would 
not recommend one of those very largest mangles for the smaller 



FOR SUCCESSFUL OPERATION 2J 

plants, but on the other hand would not recommend anything smaller 
than a 100-inch mange for any plant, as table linen and sheets would 
have to be doubled to be put through the mangle ; and it takes twice as 
much time to dry out the work double as if put through single, and 
the work does not look as smooth and nice and in fact will not last as 
long as when put through single, as the seams in the middle will wear 
through sooner than the rest of the work and your customers wili no- 
tice this in a short time, and will take this into close consideration and 
look up a laundry to send flat work to where a larger mangle is used. 
Small mangles are all right for a towel supply company, where small 
pieces are to be ironed, but will not properly and perfectly do the 
larger pieces. 

Mangle blankets should be taken off and washed every week to 
keep them nice and soft for when mangle blankets become hard and 
packed clown the pores become closed and the moisture from the work 
has less chance to escape. If the mangle is in constant use the blank- 
ets should be changed twice each week, and the muslin covers as often 
as they become soiled. The hot drum may be kept nice and bright by 
using Japan wax. Wax it every day or so. This will also prevent 
the work from sticking to the hot drum; it also keeps lent and feathers 
which come from the bedding from sticking to the drum or rolls. To 
do mangle work small girls can do the work as well as larger ones, and 
you can secure them a little cheaper. The most satisfactory way I 
have found to charge for flat work is by the pound. When you do 
this work by the piece they will sometimes hold out all the small pieces 
and send the large ones to the laundry. By the pound this cuts no 
figure. You get your priec per pound for small as well as large pieces 
Three cents per pound is a fair price, but not too much. You can 

make a good profit at this figure, and it will also be a reasonable price 
to the customer. Some get 3^ and 4 cents and you should try and 
get all you can for your work, but do not try to do this work for less 
than 3 cents per pound, as this is cheap enough for first class mangle 
work, which you will do when you follow my formulas. 

DAMPENING. 

While there are so many different ways to do this work, 1 will not 
try to say what the best way is, but where a dampening machine is nsed^ 
the same one should use it every time as this will put you in a posi- 
tion to know just who to go to if the work is not properly done. Good 
dampening is as important as any other part of the work, and poor 
dampening means poor ironing; but in case you use cloths to dampen, 
the same ones should also wring those cloths each time. A good way 
to test the cloths to know when they are dry enough is to take one cor- 
ner of the cloth and twist it just as tight as you can between thumb 
and finger, and if any water drorjs the cloth is too wet, but if the water 



2 8 PATTERSON'S SYSTEM 



just conies to the surface so you can see it, but none drops, the cioths 
are in good shape for dampening. Just how long to leave clothes in 
the dampening cloths is a question. Climate makes a difference. The 
condition of the weather also cuts some figure, and the safest way will 
be to look after your work closely, and as soon as it becomes damp 
enough, it should be taken out of press, and ironed as you take oat of 
the cloths. If you find that the work is getting too damp, then take 
it all out of the cloths, and wrap it up in bunches in a damp cloth to 
keep it just right. If you see that it is drying out after it has been 
placed in bunches and before you can get it ironed, add on another 
damp cloth and in this way you wiM have no trouble with your damp- 
ening. 

MARKING IN. 

After opening the bundle sort the contents into the different 
classes. Place each class in separate place. Now begin and count 
and list. After this is done throw all articles that are marked into 
their place for the wash, and those unmarked may now be marked, 
and in this way you are less apt to make mistakes, as if you tried to 
look up the mark and count at the same time. 

On the other hand when you start to mark you are not disturbed 
or annoyed by looking over your work, to find a mark, but when you 
pick up a parcel you know that it is not marked and that you have the 
mark and nothing else upon your mind until you are through with 
that bundle; then another one, a different mark, but handle it in the 
same manner. Von must have a system of every branch of the work 
if you would make a success of the business. 

THE ASSORTING. 

About tlie only practical way that I have found to do this part 
of the work is to use upright assorting racks, better known as "pigeon 
holes." These racks may be made large enough to place two bundles 
in one pigeon hole. In this way it will not be necessary to have so 
many holes as if you had a separate one for each bundle; and another 
point that is gained is, less mistakes are apt to occur, for the simple 
reason that the one engaged in taking the parcels out will always look 
each one carefully over to see that it is in the proper bundle, but when 
only one bundle is in one pigeon hole alone, the worker will only count 
the pieces, not looking at the work, naturally supposing the assorter 
has been accurate in his work. In this way the goods are single- 
cheeked, and the other they are checked out doubly. There are as- 
m uters who are very accurate, but none perfect. The only one who 
makes no mistakes is he who never does anything. A large table is 
necessary to set in front of the racks to lay the work upon to be 



FOR SUCCESSFUL OPERATION 29 

bundled. The wrapping paper racks may be placed upon this table, 
making it handy to do the bundling. A space of 3^- feet between 
table and rack is enough, and saves walking for the assorter. This 
table may also be used to lay work upon before it is assorted into the 
racks. There may also be a rack placed under this table to lay the 
bundles upon after they are tied up. This will be handy and save 
room, as the space under the table is useless for any other purpose. 
When work is taken from ra^k and placed upon table, the list must 
accompany the work, and in tl is way there is no chance for the bundle 
to get the wrong list. Packages should not be layed too clase to- 
gether before wrapping as they may get mixed here before being tied 
up. The table should be as long as the assorting rack. This makes 
plenty of room to lay the work upon as the work is taken from the 
rack, and is handy. The racks and tables must be kept clean and free 
from dust and all engaged in handling the work must have clean 
hands, as finger marks are not good trade marks for your work. 

GENERAL RULES THAT MUST BE OBSERVED TO SUC- 
( ESSFULLY OPERATE A STEAM LAUNDRY. 

1. See that everything is perfectly clean; that all tables are 
carefully wiped off every morning with a damp cloth, before laying 
the clean parcels upon them. 

2. The floor and all wood work, dray room, tables, etc., should 
be thoroughly scrubbed at least once a week. 

;3. See that all machines, pulleys, belts and shafts are wiped off 
at least once a w r eek to prevent oil and dirt collecting upon them and 
falling down upon your work. 

4. Keep all belts at the proper tightness to prevent slipping and 
making dirt fall from them. 

5. See that all your old papers are burned up each day and not 
allowed to accumulate in marking room, as they are a good tire trap. 

b\ Keep your engine and boiler room as clean as possible, as this 
department being dirty there will be more or less dirt tracked into 
other departments, consequently, making all departments unfit for 
clean work. 

7. After you are through with starching machine, pails, cups, 
etc., used in starching, put them to soak as soon as the last piece is 
starched and wash them perfectly clean, dry them and put them in a 
proper place for the next day's starching. 

8. See that the girls that handle clean work have their aprons 
washed regularly and that they keep their hands clean, as this is very 
important. Some girls make a kick about this rule, but if they do, 
they are not the proper kind of girls to employ where high grade work 
is to he turne'd out. 



3C PATTERSON'S SYSTEM 



9. See that belts on washing machine are of the same tightness 
so that inside cylinder makes the same number of revolutions both 
ways. 

10. Clean your washers regularly with muriatic acid. This 
will preserve the wood and make it hard and sleek and free from lime 
and dirt. 

11. Do not overload your washers as they are built with a ca- 
pacity of so much and after they are loaded to their capacity, all extra 
work is an overload and will spoil the entire batch. 

12. Make sure that you run your loads the required length of 
time. Do not cut short any of your changes, as just one change cut 
short may cut the plant short of customers. 

13. Always see that your machine has plenty of suds and that 
it does not go down during a suds, but do not extreme and put in so 
much soap that it runs over, as this is soap thrown into the sewer. 

14. A good washman at a good salary is cheaper than a poor 
one, if the latter works for nothing, for washing is the staff of the 
laundry business. 

15. Get a soap that suits your water and stick to this soap and 
do not be misled by some fake advertisement. 

16. Always buy your supplies from a good, reliable firm, also 
your machinery. 

17. Specialize your help; have certain ones to do certain things, 
for the oftener one does the same thing, the better they can do it, 

18. Try and get cash for your work and make a profit by dis- 
counting your bills. 

19. Do not try to run your competitor out of business by cutting 
prices and paying high commissions; you will find that the rule works 
to the reverse and you will be the loser in the end. 

20. In opening an account with a new firm, to avoid delay in 
shipment of your goods, you should first fill out a statement showing 
your financial standing, and they can fill your orders without looking 
it up, thereby saving time. Patronize firms mentioned in this book. 

RULES FOR FIREMEN AND ENGINEERS ON THE ('ARE 
A XI) MANAGEMENT OF STEAM BOILERS. 

Height of Water. — Inspect carefully the amount of water in 
boiler. Don't rely upon the water gauge, as it becomes stopped up; 
but try gauge cocks and see that there is at least 2^ inches of water 
over flues or crown sheets. Don't unbank fire or renew fuel until you 
are satisfied with the amount of water in boiler. 

2. When water is found below the gauge cocks, DON'T turn 
on the feed, and don't tamper with or open the safety valve. Lei the 
Feed, Safetv Valve and steam outlets remain as thev are. Cover the 



FOR SUCCESSFUL OPERATION 3 I 

fire over with ashes or fresh (slack, if handy), or in case of firing with 
wood withdraw the fire and swing open the fire doors. 

3. In case of foaming close throttle and keep closed long enough 
to show the true level of water. If that level is sufficiently bigh, 
feeding and blowing will usually suffice to correct the evil. In case of 
violent foaming, caused by dirty water, or change from salt to fresh, 
or visa versa, in addition to action above stated, check draft and cover 
fire with fresh coals. 

4. Safety Valve. — Never put any additional weights on safety 
valve lever. See that it corresponds in blowing off with pressure in- 
dicated by steam gauge. Inspect frequently by raising the lever 
cautiously, as the valves may become stuck to seats and useless for the 
purpose intended. 

5. Feeding. — Never feed the boiler with cold water, but use 
some good form of heater. Not only is considerable fuel saved by 
this but repairs to the boiler also. 

NEVER feed in the front end of the boiler (unless the pipe is 
carried well through to the rear end). If fed through the front end, 
lime and other impurities are precipitated on the sheets, over the fire, 
making them liable to bulge, sag, leak and crack. 

6. Leaks and Blisters. — As soon as found, they should be prop- 
erly repaired. 

7. Blowing Off. — Blow off at least once in two weeks, every 
Saturday night would be better. In case the feed water is muddy, 
blown down a few inches every day. Boilers should never be blown 
out while hot, as the walls, plates, flues and braces retain sufficient heat 
to bake the deposits of mud into a hard scale that becomes firmly at- 
tached to their surface, and with the outer walls and bridgewall hot 
there is danger of injury to the plates in the boiler. The boiler and 
walls should always be allowed to cool down before water is run out; 
the deposit of mud and scales will then be quite soft, and can easily 
be washed out from all accessible places. Many engineers suppose that 
blowing out a boiler under pressure has a tendency to remove these 
deposits from the boiler, but experience has shown this to be a very 
grave mistake. 

8. Removing Deposit and Sediment. — In tubular boilers the 
manhole should be often opened, and all collections removed from over 
the fire. For extracting lime and other impurities, secure a boiler 
compound made especially for the water you are using. Thero are 
firms in this business, by sending them some of the scales taken from 
your boiler they will prepare a compound to destroy the lime, etc., 
without harm to the boiler 1 . 

Compound. — Wyandotte Washing Soda is an excellent boiler 
compound. It removes the scale and keeps the boiler perfectly clean, 
without the slightest "pitting." In places where the water is soft, one 



32 PATTERSON'S SYSTEM 



pound to each hundred gallons of water in your boiler should be used. 
Where the water is hard, double this amount. 

CARE OF STEAM ENGINES. 

Always have engine set level upon a good solid foundation and 
parallel with line shaft, in some good convenient place where plenty 
of light may be had. Keep engine well oiled but do not put so much 
on as to ran over oil cups and holes, as this is dirty and careless as well 
as waste of oil. A drop in the proper place is better than a gallon 
spilled all over the floor and engine. See that all bolts are tight; pack 
piston rod, valve rods and governor stem regularly and do not allow 
packing to become hard and dry. 

Garlock packing, as my experience has taught me, is the best on 
the market. Try it. After packing becomes hard and dry it will 
cut rods and make them impossible to keep tight. If your rods are 
cut take them out, have them turned true and keep them so by pack- 
ing regularly. See that Lubricator feeds regularly and just enough to 
properly supply Valve Chamber and inside of Cylinder. Keep Pins 
set up just so engine runs smoothly and does not heat or knock. If 
any bearing about engine heats, oil it, and if this does not remedy it, 
something is wrong. It is either too tight or out of line. Always 
keep engine clean by wiping it each morning and noon before start- 
ing it. See that valve is properly set, by examining it. Once prop- 
erly set is good for all time to come if it is not moved or eccentric does 
not slip. A thickness of a knife blade is plenty of lead for the aver- 
age engine. If you are not a practical engineer you had better get 
one to set valves and adjust your engine, and if you can, it will pay 
you to keep a practical man, as good men are cheap at any price. 



FEB 15 1904 



